Fragrance Reviews

Lush 25:43 Fragrance Review

* 25:43 kicks off with a sweet burst – lime and caramel, with an herbal green haze covering it.  Those notes may sound a bit odd together, but it works really well.

* The wedding of his son Simon inspired Lush perfumer Mark Constantine to create 25:43.

* As the lime fades away, the caramel is joined by some dense resins with a subtle, light floral shading.

* I am not sure just exactly what 25:43 represents – possibly a Bible verse?  Can anyone quote a scripture that would fit?

* The sweet yet dry vanilla/resin base lasts a long time.

Summary:  Lush 25:43 was an impulse buy for me that I am quite happy with.  I was in the Aventura mall store and was taken by the lime caramel candy top notes.   While the fragrance is sweet, it isn’t TOO sweet.   The scent is advertised as a romantic fragrance, and with the sweet notes you would expect it to be very feminine, however a guy could easily rock this – even at work.   The initial 30 minutes is kind of loud- so if you want to wear this at work, put it on early and allow it to settle before you walk into the office.  When you are ready to leave work for the day, you will have a really nice vanilla/resinous skin scent that will be a great base for just about anything.

Lush 25:43 is available at Lush stores and on the Lush website.


Fragrance Reviews

Serge Lutens Cuir Mauresque Fragrance Review

* Cuir Mauresque kicks off with a big punch of rubber and leather mixed with sweet resins.  No, it really does smell good.

* Serge Lutens is a french fragrance line known for their strong and powerful oriental fragrances.   Although the bottles are identical, each one is wildly different.

* The top notes take the back seat as amber, cinnamon, and incense sweeten things up.

* When I first got into fragrance,  Fille en Aguilles was brand new and my first exposure.  I sniffed it in a store and thought- pine needles, big deal.  About a year later, I stopped and sampled just about every scent in the line and starting kicking myself at how much I loved so many of their scents.

* Musk and sweet leather are the main parts of the base, though there is a bit of cinnamon and nutmeg in there as well.  The base lasts a long time, even through a shower.

Summary:  Cuir Mauresque is the equivalent to a WTF track.  When I hear a track and say to myself, WTF was that — this was the reaction I had to the first sniff Cuir Mauresque.  It’s strong, dark, and evil in a sexy way- so it’s easy to see why I’ve gone through almost a full bottle of it already.  Not office friendly, though if you put it on the evening – when you wake up in the morning the sweet leather base notes will still be there (and make you very nice to snuggle up to).

Serge Lutens  Cuir Mauresque is available from Luckyscent, Aedes,  and Barneys New York.

Fragrance Reviews

By Kilian Rose Oud Fragrance Review

* Rose Oud starts with a powerful punch of oud and rose mixed together.  It is strong and projects loudly.

* Oud is a resin from southeast Asian evergreen trees that have been infected by a mold.  It is rare, expensive, and highly prized in Indian and Arabic cultures.

* After wearing it a few times, I’ve noticed that top sometimes gets a little soapy on me as well, while most of the time it is Rose and Oud.

* As the scent calms down into the heart notes – the rose and oud stay present, joined by honey and cinnamon.  Oud acts as the base, with the sweeter notes making a nice contrast.

* The base notes mirror the heart with the addition of a bit more sweetness, with either butterscotch or vanilla coming in to play.  This is by no means an edible gourmand, but a quite pleasant sweetness combining with a more subtle rose and oud.

Summary:  Combining a classical female note, rose, with a classically male note, oud, is quite brilliant and the contrast makes this quite a unique and sophisticated scent.  Rose Oud is one of four oud scents from By Killian along with Pure Oud, Incense Oud, and the recently released Amber Oud.  A limited edition Extreme Oud is apparently only available in the middle east. This is a great nighttime fragrance as its way too much for the office.  It’s extremely sexy in a seductive, not sleazy, kind of way.  As the scent is quite expensive, you will definitely want to skin test it a few times before going for a full bottle.

By Kilian Rose Oud is available from Luckyscent, Aedes and Saks Fifth Avenue.


Fragrance Reviews

Bond No 9 New York Oud Fragrance Review

* New York Oud kicks off with a quite loud blast of oud and sweet plum.

* It is strong, quite strong, and lasts a long time.

* The sweet plum recedes and saffron comes into the forefront with the oud for a little while.   Then on me, I suddenly get Ivory Soap (on top of the oud).   I am not sure exactly of the notes – kind of sweet, but in an inedible kind of way.

* Projection on this is massive and it stays strong for several hours

* In the base, there is still the oud and saffron in the forefront.  On different wearings, I’ve also smelled patchouli and a light musk – but it’s still all about the oud and saffron.

Summary:  Bond No 9 is what I call, lovingly, a battery acid fragrance.  Once it goes on, it cuts through everything and takes control.  I wouldn’t say it’s linear (meaning the same from top to base) but it’s linear-ish, as if the main oud and saffron stay in the game with different players joining for a bried inning/appearance.  This is definitely not an office fragrance – save it for the nighttime.  If you find New York Oud too strong and want to stay in the Bond No 9 line, try their Signature Oud in the gold bottle.

Bond No 9 Royal Oud is available from Saks Fifth Avenue and Bond No 9 New York Boutiques.