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Fragrance Reviews

By Kilian Black Oud Fragrance Review

by-kilian-black-oud
* Starts off viciously, with an aggressive oud in your face mixed with animalic skank and dirty musk.

* Wow, this stuff is strong and definitely not for the faint of heart.

* Leather comes into the picture in almost a violent way – again, it’s dirty and animalic.

* At this point, the scent goes completely linear – leather, oud, sweat, animalic, and dirty.

Summary:  Etat Libre D’Orange did a fragrance for Tom of Finland which was a pretty weak and safe leather scent.  They got it completely wrong.  By Killian Black Oud is the scent that should have been for Tom of Finland.  Smelling it,  I picture hot, sweaty, hairy musclemen dancing in leather gear for hours.  And hours is the optimal word, as this scent doesn’t go away – it lingers, for more than 24 hours and through a shower or two .  Black Oud was previously exclusive to the Middle Eastern markets and it’s easy to see (and smell) why – this is some strong stuff.  Clearly not office-friendly and you would definitely need to have cojones to wear this out in public.  It projects massively and everyone around you will notice it. 

By Kilian Black Oud is only available by Kilian boutiques.

Sample purchased by me. Image from By Kilian website.

Categories
Fragrance Reviews

Jacoglu Oud Prestige Fragrance Review

oud-prestige-jacoglu* Stoic citrus are at the top. The fruits stand out, but they aren’t sweet and juicy, they are more sharpened and direct. Grapefruit and strawberry with earl grey tea and some cedar behind it.

* The opening feels very distinguished – in a gentlemanly kind of way.

* What comes next is a bit strange – a mix of motor oil, pine, and dirty jasmine.

* It smells a bit strange but softens a bit and gets a bit sweeter and woodier.

* A bit of oud seeps in as a supporting note behind a musky amber in the base.

Summary: There is a lot to like about this scent – it is interesting and a bit strange without being so weird that it is scary. Oud Prestige is an Oud 2.0 fragrance, so it isn’t an ‘oud in your face’ bomb, but rather the oud acts as a supporting player and blends well into the composition. The label on the scent says for women, but I completely disagree. While a woman could wear this, on me it reads very rich gentleman. The strangeness I describe in the middle sounds kind of leftfield and it does remind me of Smellbent Accident – but a much more refined and dignified version. Longevity is excellent, at more than 10 hours, and after the first hour, the projection is light enough to make it an office-friendly scent. I would recommend this scent to anyone looking for a nonaggressive oud scent that has a bit of personality and is a bit out of the ordinary.

Jacoglu Oud Prestige is available from LuckyScent.

Disclaimer: Sample received from publicist. Image courtesy of Luckyscent.

Categories
Fragrance Reviews

Mona di Orio Violette Fumee Fragrance Review

mona-di-orio-violette-fumee
* Large cloud of airy violet – slightly sweet, but not candied.

* When I say cloud, I mean it’s airy and voluminous – like you walked into a hazy space and you feel the violet all around you.

* Actually, fumée means smoke in French – so the smoke / cloud effect makes sense.

* After the first hour, the cloud begins to get closer and a little more dense. 

* It gets a little more masculine, with lavender and sage cutting the sweetness a bit.  Violet is still the focus – these are just there for support.

* The scent also reacts differently on my skin.   Sometimes I get a musky floral after the lavender, while at other times there is a dry rose.

* In the deep dry-down, the violet is still the star with some resins grounding it.

Summary:  Mona Di Orio is a line that I have been meaning to explore for a while.  Many fragrance friends of mine are diehard fans, and even though I have a sample kit, I haven’t dove in.  A trip to a Louisville perfumery netted me this sample of Violet Fumee, and I can see why people love the line.  This is not a feminine, candy sweet violet bomb.  Neither is it a classic masculine violet lavender.  The feeling is defiantly unisex, mixing both sides together for a composition that can develop on your skin in a few different ways.  After the first hour, this would be a great office scent because while it’s long-lasting, it’s not so strong as to overpower those around you, yet you will definitely smell it on yourself for at least 8 hours.  The price is on the high side, so definitely test it a few times before you take the plunge.  And yes, this has inspired me to dive into my sample box.

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Mona Di Orio fragrances are available from Lady Ruth Perfumes, LuckyScent and MIN New York.

Disclaimer: Sample provided by Lady Ruth Perfumes. Picture courtesy of LuckyScent.

Categories
Fragrance Reviews

Costume National Homme Fragrance Review (Mainstream Monday)

costume-national-homme
* Starts with a spicy citrus burst of orange and grapefruit, covered with cinnamon, and sharpened with a touch of cedar.

* With those top notes it feels surprisingly dense – this isn’t a cologne-style citrus, but a cloud that surrounds you.

* The citrus gets sweeter as an earthy patchouli comes in.

* That incredibly dense feel of the top continues and actually starts to make the scent feel a bit muddled.

* Luckily, when the base comes in it gets a lot better. The amber woods with a touch of sweetness and booze are really nice and almost makes the scent worth wearing.

Summary: When I first got this scent, I absolutely loved it. I am guessing over the past few years my tastes have changed. I tried to figure out the right word to describe it and I came across Victoria’s description on EauMG when she called it milky. That’s exactly it. It’s not that I don’t like like milky scents (I love Join the Club Shun Koin) – but just like orange juice is great with cereal and milk – the idea of mixing milk and orange juice together in one drink is disgusting. That’s how it reads on my skin. I haven’t worn this in a while and will probably sell my bottle. I guess I need to go back and revisit CN Scent Intense as well. A lot of people really like CN Homme and it’s worth testing – especially as a designer scent that is unique. It is really long lasting (more than 12 hours) with strong projection – not office friendly and more for nighttime.

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Costume National Homme is available from Lucky Scent.

Disclaimer: No disclaimer needed, I own a full bottle. Image courtesy of Lucky Scent.