* Vetiver is a green grass with earthy, woody, and smoky qualities. The top notes are green, but not really bright, and sort of muddle with clove.

* The Bois 1920 line was launched in 2005 when Enzo Galardi began reinterpreting his grandfather Guido’s original formulas.

* A hint of amber starts to peek through the green in middle development. It’s light and reminds me of the modeling clay that I played with as a child.

* As an Eau de Toilette, the strength is moderate, and it would make a great office-friendly scent.

* In the dry down, the amber becomes the focus. It’s not a bold amber- more light and powdery.

* Although this is in their men’s collection, it could easily be worn by women.

Summary: Vetiver Ambrato is exactly what the name suggests. While it doesn’t blow me away as life-shatteringly amazing, it is a high quality fragrance that will work for many as a safe, office-friendly fragrance.

Bois 1920 Vetiver Ambrato is available from Luckyscent, MIN New York and select independent boutiques.

* Profumi Del Forte is an ultra high end Italian niche line – smelling their fragrances, it’s easy to tell that they use the highest quality ingredients across the board.

* The initial kick is pure sweetness with plum and strawberry, with a touch of tuberose.

* Versilia Aurum is a powerhouse statement of a perfume.  It is obviously made for women but is so over the top strong that a man with confidence could make this smell very sexy indeed.

* After the sweet fruit recedes, the tuberose stays strong as other florals make their presence known.  Each time I wear it, I smell something different – a white floral with a touch of orchid, a jammy rose fighting the tuberose, and sometimes, a dirty iris is mixed with the tuberose.

* I first smelled this fragrance at Selfridge’s in London.  As someone who likes dark and evil, this was so far the opposite that I was attracted to it.  The fact that it lasted through two showers and more than 36 hours of wear made it worth the high price to me.

* The base notes last forever (see above) and are a comforting mix of vanilla, amber, and balsams.

Summary:  Versilia Aurum is not for everyone.   Guys who wear it need to be very confident in their masculinity.  Gals who wear it need to strong enough to project such a strong fragrance.  Two sprays will last you for days.  If you get a spritz on clothing, it will last through a laundering.   I absolutely adore this scent and wish that it was available as a candle.  Please note that this fragrance is quite expensive, but it is of the highest quality and lasts a long time.

Profumi Del Forte Versilia Aurum is available from LuckyScent.

* The Arquiste line is created by architect Carlos Huber who specializes in historic preservation.  Each fragrance is meant to transport the wearer to a moment in time.

* Anima Dulcis (the name is Latin for ‘sweet soul’) kicks off with sweet cocoa kick and a touch of light florals.  It is sweet, but not sickeningly sweet.

* The fragrance is meant to evoke Mexico City in 1695, where nuns in the Royal Convent of Jesus Maria would prepare a cocoa spiced with chile.

* The floral notes on top recede and a rich vanilla comes out, which is balanced by a darkening of the cocoa.   The fragrance gets richer as it develops.

* Though projection is moderate, people will notice you up close.

* Cocoa stays present throughout but gets drier as the spicy chile notes and hints of cinnamon come through.

Summary:   While some drink coffee in the morning to wakeup, a spritz of this cocoa scent would do the trick as well.  On your way to work, the mid notes become more of a skin scent and quite office friendly.   Think of this as grown up hot chocolate that you would get from a niche coffee house that isn’t afraid thing to experiment and add chili from space.

Arquiste Anima Dulcis is available at Barneys New York.