* The Atelier Cologne signature is to blend unique and unexpected notes with traditional cologne elements (fresh citrus) to create a modern take on colognes.

* Ambre Nue starts off with a fresh and sweet tangerine mixed with bergamot.

* As a Cologne Absolue, this scent is stronger than a traditional Eau du cologne and lasts much longer.

* The citrus is joined by dry cinnamon and light white florals.

* This fragrance wears differently on me.  Sometimes I get a light scent of tarragon in the middle development.  Othertimes, the amber starts to come in with the white florals.

* Amber becomes the star in the base notes supported by a clean patchouli and vanilla.  The base lasts for several hours.

Summary:  Ambre Nue starts off like a citrusy cologne and develops overtime into a richer, comforting amber scent.   Although there is a good bit of sillage for the first hour or two, it is never overwhelming making this scent a great one for office wear. The citrus will wake you up when you first put it on in the morning and vanilla/amber base will give you comfort as you finish off a long work day.

Ambre Nue is available from Lucky Scent, Neiman Marcus, and from the Atelier Cologne website.

* Cuir Fetiche starts with smoky, dark citrus.  That sounds odd – but imagine tangerines and bergamot being barbecued.

* Although dressed in a leather corset, Cuir Leather smells as good on guys as it does on gals.

* The smoke continues as the leather starts to come in with a dry rose accent.

* Each time I wear this it smells a little differently.   Sometimes the leather is stronger and other times the smoke gets a bit overwhelming.

* A blend of musk and patchouli give the drown a sexy and animalic feel. Its a little dirty and a little naughty, but not filthy.

Summary:  If you are looking for a smoky leather fragrance, Cuir Fetiche will be a great one to try.  Definitely skin test this, because it comes across a lot sweeter on a blotter card then it does on skin.  Cuir Fetiche has good projection for the first hour and then becomes a skin scent which lasts more than 8 hours. I like Cuir Fetiche a lot, moreso than other classic leathers like Knize Ten or Cuir de Russie.

Cuir Fetiche is available from Lucky Scent, Aedes de Venustas, Henri Bendel, and other independent niche stores that carry the MPG line.

* Illuminum is a British niche house that is probably best known for White Gardenia Petals, which was worn by Kate Middleton for her royal wedding.

* Black Musk starts with a mix of balsams and tonka with strong projection.

* Illuminum makes two lines: Vaporizor scents act as an intro to the world of niche fragrance aimed at the mainstream market, while the Haute Perfume line are at a concentration of 30% and are intense, powerful, and luxurious.

* The balsams are joined by a clean patchouli and an almost chocolate-y leather.

* The Illuminum Lounge in London on Dover Street offers a multi-sensory experience in fragrance where you can not only smell but taste, see, and feel it as well.  It offers monthly classes in perfume appreciation/making as well.

* When I wear Black Musk, it lasts more than two days on my skin, with the musk base notes lasting through two showers.

Summary:  Think of Black Musk as a pleasant hangover.  Spray it on in the evening before you go out.  When you wake up, you (and those close to you) will still smell a chocolate-y, leathery musk.  A morning shower will clean your body, but the scent will persist throughout the next day, reminding you of the fun of the previous evening.   With this being my first experience with the Illuminum line, I anxiously await testing more of their Haute Perfume line.

Illuminum Haute Perfumes are available from http://www.illuminumperfumelounge.com/ . They will be available at Henri Bendel in June 2012.

Disclaimer: Sample provided by Illuminum. My opinions are my own and I am not financially compensated for this review or any others. Image from www.illuminumperfumelounge.com

* A Yatagan is an Ottoman sword with a single edged blade that was often decorated with artwork and gilded with precious metals.

* Yatagan kicks off with a mix of absinthe and lavender which seems strange, pairing something traditionally narcotic with something medicinal.

* The absinthe stays present and is joined by the scent of pine needles and forest sap.  Its as if different kind of greens are mixed together to form something completely different.

* Although it doesn’t project, the cologne will take you from day to evening with over 12 hours of wear.

* The base notes last a long time – patchouli mixing with leather, forest sap, vetiver, and musk.

* The scent is a play on opposites – cold and hot, moist and dry, maybe even love and war – hence the yatagan name.

Summary:  Yatagan was released in the late 70s and is still in production almost 40 years later; that’s they sign of a nearly classic fragrance.  Since it stays close to the skin, it is office friendly, but don’t let the scent encourage your warrior spirit to take over.