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European Trip 2013: Day 5 (Paris)

ron-abdul-jovoyAfter a good night’s sleep, I met up with Abdul Al-Jofar (a friend from a Facebook group) to do some sniffing in Paris.  We were a little early for Hotel Costes and Jovoy, so we were walking around and bumped into the Francis Kurkdjian boutique. The lovely Anastacia from Ukraine showed us the Russian exclusive Ciel du Gum, which is similar to Absolue Pour le Soir but a bit more musky and less cutting.  We had a nice chat about how Francis listens to the different markets and tailors scents for them.  For example, Germans don’t like orange blossoms and the French don’t like Patchouli, while the US people love clean and fresh.  Yes, these are all generalities but they do hold true. The running joke was what kind of scents do Asians like: the ones you can’t smell.  She ran into the back and pulled out a tester of the Marie Antoinette scent that Francis was working on.  Based on a formula found in the family’s vault, he reconstructed it with natural ingredients to match what the original would smell like.  Sniffing it, the overwhelming green floral was narcotic. While it’s not a scent I would ever wear, the beauty was magnificent and I kept the card in an envelope so I could continue to enjoy it.  She also showed the new skincare line which is based on some of the more popular scents.  Both Abdul and I said that if they did a body wash of Absolue Pour le Soir, we would buy out the store.  Of course, why would you buy a body wash that makes you smell dirty?  Especially when you can get Flying Fox from Lush.

ron-abdul-iumxNext up was a trip to Hotel Costes where we had a nice chat with Ronald (see last year’s write-up about the perfume Nazi here). I asked about the rumor about some scents being brought back and the lineup changing for IUMX.  He confirmed that and went on to say a few more things (which I forgot), but watch for some new scents in the IUMX line to be forthcoming.  Abdul picked up a travel spray of one of the scents as a gift (he had already bought four others the night before). We both felt really special, because Ronald agreed to take a picture of us – in the store – in front of the sniff flowers.

Jovoy was right up the block, so we spent at least an hour sniffing everything in the store.  A quick sniff of the new Neela Vermiere made me thankful that I was going to meet her the next day for lunch (and to get a full sample). I asked for (and was graciously given) a sample of the forthcoming Puredistance Black which I sniffed and I found to be a well-done spicy incense, though I need to give it a full wearing. The new Von Eusersdorff Orange was a surprisingly long citrus, which lasted a long time on skin (citrus notes usually dissipate quickly on me).  New to me was the Arte Profumi line, from which I really liked Harem Soiree (a boozy patchouli) and Sucre Noir (an expensive-smelling vanilla).  From the house line (of which I own and wear Psychedelique and Private Blend),  I sample Lys Epona – a gorgeous lily/rose blend tempered with a musky tobacco.  Looking at the Roja Dove display, I tried the Diaghilev, which was entrancing.  It was like a more moneyed version of Puredistance M (which already smells expensive). Though at 990 Euros, it is also a scent that I would never even consider owning – though it’s definitely worth smelling.  Abdul was really into Vero Profumo, testing the new Vol Extrait concentrations before purchasing two of the Kiki versions (I had fun explaining to him what a Kiki really was). I really need to spend some more time playing with the Vero scents – on first sniff, they are all pretty amazing.

ron-viktoria-minyaAbdul had to run off to join his family, so I went on to meet the lovely Hungarian perfumer Viktoria Minya for a coffee and an interview.  Just like yesterday’s chat with Pierre Guillaume, I found it refreshing how Viktoria speaks her mind, backs up her points, and is so passionate about her work.  Like Pierre, Viktoria is the chemist who makes her own scents.  She studied in Grasse and has her own lab outside Paris.  Her first self-released scent, Hedonist, is exceptional (read the eaumg review here) and she said she has more scents in the making.  I asked her if she would ever consider making a version of the scent that could be mass-marketed.  She said that with the level of raw ingredients she was using, she couldn’t keep the integrity of her product while reducing the price for the retail point of department stores. That balance is always an issue for every perfumer.  Watch for my interview with Minya to pop up on the site really soon.  Oh, by the way, Viktoria is every bit as enchantingly beautiful as her scent.

Relying on Google Maps, I found my way to Planet Rasoir to pick up some Martin de Candre pre shave for me (and Fougere soap for my friend Duane).  While there, I asked for a recommendation for a barber to get a shave and they graciously made an appointment for me at L’atelier Gentleman for the next day.

cotton-douxA quick visit to Coton Doux and I found two obnoxiously-colored geometric patterned shirts that would look good on stage (which I therefore bought).

777-line-bon-marcheNext up was the big department stores Printemps and Galleries Lafayettes.  Catching my eye at Printemps was the new 777 line from Stephane Humbetr Lucas (the creator/nose behind Nez a Nez and So Oud). I sniffed each one and Rose De Petra was a really nice sweet rose and Khol de Bahrein was a sweet, syrupy leather. The jewel of the line was O Hira – sweet honey, syrup, balsams, and resins – basically the nectar of the Gods.  I fell for it and it smelled great on me.  If it wasn’t for the price at 580 Euros, I probably would have bought it. Instead, at Printemps, I found an amazing mosaic-tiled abstract shirt from Miharayasuhiro that was constructed like nothing I had ever seen before. It took me a while to figure it out and anything that enchanting has to come home with me.

in-the-royal-chair-sens-uniqueMy final stop of the night was Sens Unique in the Marais – another amazing independent niche boutique which carries the Pierre Guillaume lines as well as Laboratorio Olfativo, Jacques Zoltu, Shiloh Hors La Monde, Jul et Mad, Au Pays La Fleur Doange, Maria Lux, Oliver Durbano, and Humeicki and Graef.  After sniffing just about the whole store, I settled on a few to test- Figue Fruitee, Tuberose Rosee, and Lavande Ombre (from Au Pays La Fleur D’ranger), Jul et Mad Amour de Palazzo, and Purple Amethyst & Philsophical Stone from Oliver Durbano.  I saw something on the back shelf that I hadn’t seen before – it was two oil-based scents from Nabucco – Amytis and Nabucco.  Both were enchanting, and I had a drop of each put on the top of my hand.  The longevity of both were insane – lasting through several hand washes and a shower.  Amytis is a sumptuous, honeyed vanilla that becomes a sweet, nutty amber vanilla over its wear.  Again, it’s amazing but also insanely expensive.

metro-seats-by-paul-smithSens Unique closes at 9pm which made it the perfect final stop of the evening.  The metro on the way home had me chuckling at advertisements and the seat cushions (wondering if Paul Smith had designed them).  Back at the hotel, I passed out asleep as soon as I sat down on the bed.metro-advertising

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European Trip 2013: Day 4 (Paris – Clermont Ferrand)

ron-pierre-guillaume-1

Yesterday, I took the train from Amsterdam to Paris and had a very nice dinner with a friend from Basenotes.  After a quick sleep, I was up at 5am to bring my journey to Clermont Ferrand, the home of Pierre Guillaume.

cathedral-clermont-ferrand-1I met Pierre at Osswald in NYC during the January 2013 Elements Showcase.  I liked a lot of his work from his PG and Huitieme Art lines, so I asked if I could visit him when I came to Paris. With his charming smile, he said yes.

The train from Paris to Clermont Ferrant is 3.5 hours, so I arrived around 10:30 am.  Pierre was there at the train station to pick me up and we instantly got to talking about everything in the perfume world – from naturals, IFRA, concentrations, conflicts of interest, the blogosphere and more.

harimens-5First stop was his lab, where I met his family, literally. Parfumerie Generale employs 7 people, including his mother.  They do everything by hand – pouring the bottles, mixing the concentrates, labeling the bottles, etc.  Pierre took me into the warehouse and let me smell raw materials, bases, and even explained how certain ones combined together made many of the biggest fragrances.  He let me skin test his upcoming Vetiver scent (which surprisingly worked on me, since vetiver usually goes caustic on me).  He explained to me about densities, concentrations and more.

harimens-4Like many of the French perfumers, Pierre has opinions and isn’t afraid to express them. This was a refreshing change after 4 days of interviewing DJs and producers who are politically correct and don’t want to offend anyone.  He spoke about how in his store, he discovers that people are not happy with mainstream fragrance and want something special that is still wearable. He appreciates the bloggers, but also notes that they often have extreme tastes and praise things that most people don’t like.  I used the term “Joe Average” and he instantly locked in on that.  I shared with him that the phenomenon he realizes is common to every interest – be it wine, food, or dance music – the people who are really into it dive deep and are fascinated by the strange or underground that Joe Average has no use for.  While I appreciate underground grindcore noise, its not something I would ever play in a club set.  It’s the same way I appreciate Smell Bent Accident; it’s a creative piece of art that expresses a point of view and is pretty amazing, but it’s not something that I (or most people I think) could wear on a regular basis.

Pierre went on to explain that the Huitieme Art line is meant to be an introductory line with scents that are pretty linear (same from beginning to end) to gradually move Joe Average from mainstream scents to niche.  After experimenting with HA scents, they can move to the Pierre Guillaume signature line, which he is known for.

cathedral-clermont-ferrand-2Yes, we spoke a lot and I managed to capture a lot of it in the interview which is forthcoming. He took me next to the store when it was time for lunchtime.  Being a quaint small town, just about everyone closes their store/work for lunch and has an hour lunch with friends/colleagues.  Lunch (and other meals) are quite important, and I enjoyed a delicious curried pork with the most charming waiter (who had fun with me in English and my broken French). Pierre and his partner were gracious hosts, and we spoke about life in Clermont Ferrand and how it is part of his being, something he doesn’t want to leave by moving to Paris.  Also, that his family is very important to him and wants to stay close.

At the store Harimens, I explored the full lines of PG, HA and Phaedon (which he recently purchased back).  He joked about how even though the new bottles are black, the Huitieme Art scents are the same – but customers will smell a difference and always think the black bottle is more intense.  Packaging and conditioning, you’ve got to love it.  In addition to those lines, the store also carries Len et Mad candles, Diptyque, and a few well-curated niche lines.

After a wonderful interview, I purchase a scent that I wanted along with a candle as a gift and headed back to the train station for the ride home.

Spending the day with Pierre was really educational – I learned a lot about how fragrances are constructed, the financial aspect, and what really goes into making a perfume.  Then there’s also the personal side of balancing being artistic and fiscally responsible. It also let me get to know Pierre in a way that I think I understand him and the way he thinks.  We all remember when Kurkdjian gave that interview about bloggers which everyone reacted to, well, I understand a little more from the perfumer side and that in our sound byte world we don’t get the full picture, just a few words taken out of context.

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European Trip 2013: Day 3 (Amsterdam)

Keiko Mecheri Display at Skins
Keiko Mecheri Display at Skins

I took a small break from Amsterdam Dance Event to check out Skins in the Conservatorium.  I had visited the store in the 9 Streets (close by Felix Meritis) before and received excellent consultation and suggestions.  At the Conservatorium, it was exactly the same experience. It’s obvious that they love perfume and to share it with others.

The O'driu Crypt as Skins
The O’driu Crypt as Skins

The display from Keiko Mecheri was breathtaking, as was the closet of Odriu. When speaking to shop manager (or owner), he said their goal was to only feature truly niche perfume and that when a line is picked up by a large company, they choose to no longer carry it. Its a similar ethos to underground dance music, where DJs don’t play anything mainstream – choosing to only support noncommercial music.  I can see both sides of this plan, but will say that the Skins plan seems to be working well for them.

NuBe at Skins
NuBe at Skins

I experienced the NuBe line for the first time, and Helium (H3) stood out to me (and I ended up buying).  A new natural line from Abel with Vintage 13 didn’t really speak to me.  They had the full Terry Guzman line, which is now at Barneys in NYC.  A few nice ones, but none that completely grabbed me. I was impressed to see the Naomi Goodsir line that I had just discovered in Italy at Corsi Como — watch out for these two scents.  There were so many quality niche lines – M Micallef, Creed, etc. that I’ve forgotten most of them.

The customer service here is excellent and I strongly recommend a visit to Skins if you visit Amsterdam.

Basically, across the street is a wildly exuberant (and extravagantly priced) store called People Of the Labyrinth.  They have a scent called Parfum A*maze.  The female version is a flower bomb.  The male version is a boozy monster (in a good way).  I grabbed a tester and look forward to giving it a runthrough.

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European Trip 2013: Day 2 (Milan)

ron-before-afterA full 10 hours of rest made me feel well-rested and ready to attack Milan on my second day. I started by walking to Antica Barbiera Colla, a classic barbershop founded in 1904. A good friend, Duane, who is really into wet shaving asked me to pick up some shave soap from there, so I decided to get a full-service head and neck shave. To say it was invigorating and luxurious was an understatement. The animated and friendly Beppe did an incredible job with the razor and there wasn’t a single nick. I am quite afraid of shaving with a straight blade but the results he achieved made me consider giving it a shot. The secret is to think of shaving as a luxury that you enjoy and not something I rush through in the shower twice a week. It is a mindset, after all.

What I got from Etro..
What I got from Etro..

Next stop was the Etro Outlet where I realized that I probably made a mistake not coming here first. Granted, the service at the outlet is not as exceptional as at the boutique, but the prices are 1/3 to 1/2 the original retail on last season’s garment. I was hoping to find a suit as cool as the one I tried on the day before but there wasn’t much in that direction. I did find three incredible polos that I can’t wait to wear for Amsterdam Dance Event (as well as DJ gigs – yes, they are that vibrant).

pitbull-cafeFrom the Etro Outlet, I went to the Corsi Como outlet. Honestly, fragrancewise there wasn’t a lot there (and I don’t think the idea of buying discounted Honores des Pres – an all natural fragrance – is a wise idea because of shelf life). There was some “interesting” clothing items there, but most seemed a bit hipster or way too cool for me. If I was about 100 pounds thinner and 20 years younger, I could pull off some of those looks – but let’s just say they weren’t in my wheelhouse.

pizza-before-afterFrom the outlet it was a nice walk to the actual 10 Corsi Como store. Realizing that I hadn’t eaten yet, I stopped for a delicious pizza at the Rocking Horse Ristorante. I figured since it was crowded with what looked like locals and they had free WiFi that it was a safe choice. I chose a pizza with rocket salad, sweet corn, and baby prawns and finished the whole thing.

Waking into the Corsi Como store is an experience. It is a well-curated mini-department store with the trendiest of the trendy in all areas. The women’s clothing was stuff you see in magazines. I headed directly to the fragrance department where I met the lovely Mariella. We chatted a lot about fragrance and shared several stories – she’s a charming SA and I strongly recommend you ask for her by name. The store carries just about the full Commes Des Garcons and Diptyque lines, along with a lot of Tom Ford, By Killian, and Francis Kurdjian. I was looking for stuff that I hadn’t seen before and found the new Explosion D’Emotion line from L’Artisan Perfumer. The scents by Bertrand Duchafour include Amour Nocturne, Skin on Skin, and Deliria. The first two didn’t grab me at first, but the boozy fruit of Deliria kind of intrigued me. Correges Empreinte is a pretty floral that was nice, not mind-blowing, but I wouldn’t mind smelling it on a working woman (especially with the licorice in the top). I had not tried the Carla Fracci line and honestly, aside from the nice floral Medea, there rest seemed like typical designer fragrances at first sniff – nothing enchanting. The opposite extreme was Aussie perfumer Naomi Goodsir, who had two quite excellent fragrances, Cuir Velours (which is just what the title says, a velvety, sweet leather) and Bois D’Ascese (a smokey, incense-y wood). I tried the Cuir Velours on skin and it REALLY came alive. While chatting with Mariella, I kept sniffing my arm and loved the way it was developing, so I splurged on a bottle (about 110 Euros – funny how $160 seems moderately-priced for a fragrance these days). As I write this about eight hours later, Cuir Velours is still a lovely leather with a bit of booze mixed in.

cale-collectionI felt bad after slagging off the CALE line yesterday, so I decided to head to their store on Via Magenta and give the full line a good sniff. This ends up being a great area for scent lovers with Rance, Santa Maria Novella, and Jo Malone all close by. Okay, here are my initial impressions of the Cale line:
Misterio – peppery vetiver
Brezza Diseta – sweet ambergris
Preludeio D’Orient – spicy sweet that made me sneeze
Ozio – light and airy
Assolo – sweet and fruity – like a celebrity scent but well-done
Dolce Riso – I take back what I said yesterday, this one made me gag when I sprayed it.
Fulgar – lives up to its name – fucking vulgar – assertive and annoying (which actually are two words that people use to describe me)
Roboris – a perfect scent for the passive female in your life
Overall, it’s not a line for me but it was at least nice that the scents inspired reaction. The same can’t be said for the Acqua di Biella line, which ranged from light nothingness (Caluna) to explorations of Cedar (Bursch with citrus, Baraja with iris), to the briny sweet No 1. The strongest of the line was Janca, a strong, sweet feminine musky floral.

The Cale store also carries several great niche lines like Jovoy, Majda Bekkali, Marc Buxton, Clive Christian, Humierci & Graef, Les Nez, Floris, and lots of men’s grooming supplies from Taylor of Old Bond Street and Truefitt & Hill. Seeing a display of Crest toothpaste was quite humorous.

aubepine-acacia-cypres-musc-tabaromeThough one BIG reason to visit the store is the exposition on the back where they have discontinued and rare fragrances that you can touch and spray – but painfully not buy. The Creed selection is beyond amazing with several tester bottles of Tabarome (which is just as amazing as people say it is), Aubepine Acacia, and Cypres Musc. I hate to say this, but holding the bottle of Tabarome is the first time I was ever tempted to dine-and-dash – but common sense quickly kicked in and told me that was the wrong thing to do. If you visit Milan, I strongly recommend you stop by the store to check out all the niche and experience the classic fragrances that you will not find anywhere else.

Speaking of stores I strongly recommend – Profumo (Via Brera 6) feels like a mom and pop shop hosted by the lovely Susanna. Lines include Frederic Malle (they have the scent column), Le Labo (they had all the city exclusives which were fun to sniff), Diptyque, Jovoy, Mancera, Andy Tauer, Montale, and more. Both SAs were incredibly knowledgeable and FRIENDLY. I sniffed the Tableau de Parfums which I had never seen before – Miriam was nice but Loretta kinda took me away as a sweet candied amber. The line is made by Andy Tauer with a filmmaker exploring women’s memories of their mother’s perfumes.

Across the street from Profumo is a Olfatorrio Bar A Perfumes – which has a bar set-up stocked with perfumes (kind of obvious). Lines include Lostmarch, L’artisan perfumer, Piver, Miller Harris, and the connecting Penhaligon’s store. I got kind of a salesman kind of vibe from the place, so I didn’t stick around long.

From there, I headed back to Mazzolari to splurge on a bottle of Bois 1920 Vento nel Vento. After wearing it all day yesterday and realizing that it was still there the next day after a shower, I realized that I was a lemming and pulled the trigger.

At that point, it was time to head back to the apartment and go to sleep early to be ready for my 7am flight to Amsterdam.